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I couldn't get them as sharp as I wanted them using G-5's sharpener, so I tried my Arkansas stones. I still couldn't get them sharp enough so I went with G-5 strikers. I like the montecs and snuffers though, so if you find something that works please let me know.
I would really appreciate to know that too! Montecs are very well made, fly straight and tough, but aren't sharp enough out of the box and out of my hands ...
Do you know if the Tormek sharpening machines could do the job?
Thanks in advance,
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))))------E35-------------53#--27 3/8"-----enjoy shooting too much to measure speed ------------------>
I think you were right with the first idea; the stones. I ventured to Africa in 2005 with a 70lb. Mathews UltraMax (I know) shooting Beeman Max-4's tipped with 150 gr. RazorCaps, and a custom 96lb Buckmaster loosing home-made 1000 grain carbon arrows with Magnus Snuffer 160's leading the way. I sharpened them both with a three stone set-up that I packed with me; to say sharp would have been an understatement. Ken Moody, the PH and owner, said he had never seen any broadhead as sharp as mine. To close the deal, another gentleman, whom I nicknamed "The Death Bringer", also hunted with a one piece three blade (Wensel Woodsman's) sharpened the same way and was also complimented by Mr. Moody with "that really is scary sharp". While at camp, he, as well as a few others, used my set-up to re-sharpen their heads.
It consisted of two diamond stones by Smithy (325 & 750) and the Spyder Co Ultra fine white ceramic. With the Snuffers, I did use a 14" file to "Rough in" the shape as they would not lay flat out of the box. Use the marker trick to confirm the dimensional accuracy of the broadhead. The key with the file or the 325 stone is to make sure you use the same number of strokes for each side, whether or not they all need it. This will make sure the point doesn't wonder off center. Also, I filed away until the entire side was flat, not just the cutting edge.
To explain the technique, use the thumb and first finger to hold one blade with the point going forward and the threads towards the palm. Only push forward, sharpening from tip to tail, as it would cut when penetrating game. You can use heavy pressure to start with the coarse grits, but make the last few strokes of each step very light. Just be sure to put the tail end down first and let the tip down gentle as this could ruin all that hard work you put into that razor edge. I will admit that when using the 325 and on the final ceramic polish, I used a circular grinding motion to speed up the process, then the straight forward pushing for the last dozen strokes on each side.
I would recommend the Spyderco stone to anyone who sharpens any blade; I find nothing better. As with the Smithy diamonds, go with DMT. Use the ones without any holes or breaks in the surface, like the G5 stone (made by DMT) that has a 600 & 1200 grit surface. You might need a coarser grit to get things started but you should be able to cut hair off you arm with just the diamond...then when you polish with fine ceramic (yes, you can actually see the mirror shine if done right) hair should run away before the blade even gets there. I didn't use a strope, but didn't have to. With a forward style of sharpening, the same I use on any knife, it takes the burr off with it. I also like to switch sides every stroke for the last few strokes. This also helps eliminate making to burr to begin with. Hope all this helps.
Victory in life is to die for what you were born to do
"Pain is weakness leaving the body"- unknow
"I hope you life forever" -300
Bowtech Tribute, 102.5lbs.
O.L Adcock ACS CX, 74lbs @ 30"
old PSE Mach 4, 140lbs.