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  • Tuning and String twisting Elite Answer

    Howdy all,

    Got my new drawboard all made up and some custom strings.

    When you look at the timing marks on the cams (elite Answer), should you make your adjustments off the top cam or bottom. Where is your constant and staring point.

    I found you adjust the cables that are toward the riser, but where do you start. If the bottom cam is on dot 3 and top is on 2....is the top right and bottom wrong?

    This is my last mastering for bows...I have learned to do everything else well, but never tune a new string.

    Thank you,
    Smoman
    Elite Answer 28" 70# (283fps with hunting arrow)
    MBG Custom Ascent/Vengeance, Stokerized Stabilizer
    QAD HDX Rest, GT XT Hunter Arrows
    Hardcore Max release, RAMCAT Broadheads PROSTAFF
    BUCKSCORE PROSTAFF, COVERT Cameras PROSTAFF
    http://www.DeerDaze.com

  • #2
    If weight is low add twist to the bottom cam. If its already high take twist out of the top cam until in sync. there isnt a right way or wrong way unless you hit the first dot on one and the forth on the other then you went the wrong way.lol. the trick is to get both on the same dots or inbetween the same dots.
    No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Maybee-R View Post
      If weight is low add twist to the bottom cam. If its already high take twist out of the top cam until in sync. there isnt a right way or wrong way unless you hit the first dot on one and the forth on the other then you went the wrong way.lol. the trick is to get both on the same dots or inbetween the same dots.
      Like he said, get you weight and draw length close first then twist or untwist accordingly. It really helped me to write down all my moves and record my specs so you can see what moves did what to your specs.

      Comment


      • #4
        check tiller specs to the and twist cables to get tiller to spec..ie if distance to 160 hole is longer than spec on one cam untwist the cable on that cam. If distance to hole is shorter than spec twist cable to get to spec

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by pbusanga View Post
          check tiller specs to the and twist cables to get tiller to spec..ie if distance to 160 hole is longer than spec on one cam untwist the cable on that cam. If distance to hole is shorter than spec twist cable to get to spec
          That one may drive you insane. I found the spec. giving the space to the .160" hole on the cam in the pre-2012 bows to be the least important and sometimes the hardest to achieve. They did away with that spec. for the 2012's because of this. The most important I've found are to hit ATA and brace, then time the cables as Maybee-R described (more twists to bring the weight up, less to bring it down), then twist the string to achieve the proper draw. Then check to see where it peaks in the draw cycle (which has always been good for me if everything else above is still good). Remember that peak weight usually runs a little high but I try not to have it over 3 lbs. high, I've heard of it going 4 lbs. high and still being good though.
          2012 Answer AT Max-1 71# 29.5"
          2013 Answer Snow 73#, 29.5"
          2014 Energy 35 RAT Snow 60#, 30"
          2014 Energy 35 Ninja 70#, 30"

          Past Elites
          2009 Z28 70# & 80# 29.5" AP
          2010 Z28 70# 29.5" AP Snow
          2012 Tour 60# 29.5" AT AP Snow

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by KodiakArcher View Post
            The most important I've found are to hit ATA and brace
            Couldn't be more wrong! Draw length then draw weight are THE 2 most important specs to hit. And tiller....who measures that. Do a search for my posts, I recently did a simple but comprehensive instruction for tuning Elites.

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok if both cables are the wrong length due to stretch or whatever which wrong length do to go with. You need to make sure the cables are the correct length before you just start twisting. Or at least know which one is the correct length then twist the other. I agree draw length and draw weight are my first check then ATA and brace. You can have a little + or – on ATA or brace but you want to have draw length and weight spot on. I made a jig out of some I hooks and take a cable off put some tension on it and measure it at least then you in the ball park to start with.
              Last edited by 340axis; 03-06-2012, 06:32 PM.
              EAT, SLEEP, BOW HUNT!!!!!

              Comment


              • #8
                i thought the spec to the 160 hole was important because that gives you the timing of the cams ie. where they start to roll over. all very well synchronizing and getting DW and DL correct but if the cams are not rolling over / starting at correct (or near as dammit) place then the cams will be acting very inefficiently ????

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've been tuning my Elites for 4 years now and have never once taken a string off to measure it. If your cables are not the same length then your timing dots won't line up. That right there will tell you you need to twist one of them. I don't base my tuning on what the strings or cables measure. I base it on DW and DL and cam sync. When i put on new strings I know they will be the right length because I get them from a reputable builder. Once I get them on the bow it rarely takes more than a couple twists here or there for my DW, DL and sync to be perfect. Good strings will come pre stretched and built to spec. They may stretch a little more with use but I can tell you, once I have my bows tuned I don't need to ever mess with them again until I need to put new strings on. I occasionally get a bow on my draw board to confirm my tune is still good and I have yet needed to re-sync cams. Once or twice I have added a twist or 2 to the cables to get poundage where I want it but that's it.

                  Too many of you newbies are putting WAY, WAY too much thought into getting your Elite bows set up. Don't over think it! Read my tuning thread.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pbusanga View Post
                    i thought the spec to the 160 hole was important because that gives you the timing of the cams ie. where they start to roll over. all very well synchronizing and getting DW and DL correct but if the cams are not rolling over / starting at correct (or near as dammit) place then the cams will be acting very inefficiently ????
                    Why do you think the newer bows don't have the hole any more.......not necessary. If you start with good strings, they will be the right lengths and will go on and tune easily. If your cam rotation is off it's because the string is twisted too much or too little and is out of whack in proportion to the cable twists/length. That's the only way cams will be out of rotation.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pbusanga View Post
                      i thought the spec to the 160 hole was important because that gives you the timing of the cams ie. where they start to roll over. all very well synchronizing and getting DW and DL correct but if the cams are not rolling over / starting at correct (or near as dammit) place then the cams will be acting very inefficiently ????
                      Not really. If your weight and draw length is spot on you wouldnt want to mess it up to hit a timing hole at rest would you? What draw length are you I didnt read the whole thread sorry. I also think tiller tune wont work on these bows. You could set the limbs even but you really dont have to because no matter where you pull on the string both cams rotate the same amount. Slaved together.
                      No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Maybee-R View Post
                        Not really. If your weight and draw length is spot on you wouldnt want to mess it up to hit a timing hole at rest would you? What draw length are you I didnt read the whole thread sorry. I also think tiller tune wont work on these bows. You could set the limbs even but you really dont have to because no matter where you pull on the string both cams rotate the same amount. Slaved together.
                        Let me disagree on this. Slaved cams are marvellous as for straight vertical nock travel and arrow flight they produce. But still the indian behind is placing pressure on the grip (below actual true center of the bow and in defferent spots archer to archer) inconsistently, and the pin movement scheme or target acquisition speed vary (for the good) if you put some time into the tiller tunning thing IMHO.
                        FACTORY STAFF SHOOTER FOR: ELITE , FIRENOCK, GAS PRO
                        LOVING SUPPORTER OF: CBE, BEITER, VAPOR TRAIL, O.K., ZENITH, PROPOINTS, PINWHEEL software.
                        ))))------E35-------------53#--27 3/8"-----enjoy shooting too much to measure speed ------------------>
                        ))))------PURE----------54#--28"--355gr--269 fps--------------------------------------------------------------->

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by superdiablo View Post
                          Let me disagree on this. Slaved cams are marvellous as for straight vertical nock travel and arrow flight they produce. But still the indian behind is placing pressure on the grip (below actual true center of the bow and in defferent spots archer to archer) inconsistently, and the pin movement scheme or target acquisition speed vary (for the good) if you put some time into the tiller tunning thing IMHO.
                          It may help the way you hold the bow. But it wont change the Synchronization of the cams. I agree you can feel the load in the grip to some extent. But you also level out the deflection load when drawing.
                          Ive use different rated limbs to see the differences and found it hard to notice. and the tune wasnt effected but at rest only.
                          No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Maybee-R View Post
                            It may help the way you hold the bow. But it wont change the Synchronization of the cams. I agree you can feel the load in the grip to some extent.
                            Thatīs it. And that means better results out of the same bow!
                            FACTORY STAFF SHOOTER FOR: ELITE , FIRENOCK, GAS PRO
                            LOVING SUPPORTER OF: CBE, BEITER, VAPOR TRAIL, O.K., ZENITH, PROPOINTS, PINWHEEL software.
                            ))))------E35-------------53#--27 3/8"-----enjoy shooting too much to measure speed ------------------>
                            ))))------PURE----------54#--28"--355gr--269 fps--------------------------------------------------------------->

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Rgarbarino View Post
                              Couldn't be more wrong! Draw length then draw weight are THE 2 most important specs to hit. And tiller....who measures that. Do a search for my posts, I recently did a simple but comprehensive instruction for tuning Elites.
                              Not arguing here; seeking to learn something. How do you know what weight to aim for given variances in limb deflections? I've had 2 different sets of 114 deflection limbs on a bow. One produces 74# peak, the other produces 72# peak with the same exact harnesses on them. That's why I go for ATA and brace (within the specified range). The bows coming out of the factory are always off on peak weight, yet they are on for brace and ATA. I have yet to see one that would not be out of spec long on ATA if it hit its stated peak weight, except for my 80 lb. (105 deflection) Z28 limbs which I could only get up to 79# before the specs went all out of whack and the cables were way over twisted (binding).
                              2012 Answer AT Max-1 71# 29.5"
                              2013 Answer Snow 73#, 29.5"
                              2014 Energy 35 RAT Snow 60#, 30"
                              2014 Energy 35 Ninja 70#, 30"

                              Past Elites
                              2009 Z28 70# & 80# 29.5" AP
                              2010 Z28 70# 29.5" AP Snow
                              2012 Tour 60# 29.5" AT AP Snow

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