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Thread: Who uses Arkansas stones?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Eight Point Jerry/NJ's Avatar
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    1.) Go to hardware store and but a 9" x 12" scrap of 1/2" plate glass. It doesn't have to be tempered glass.
    2.) Go to auto parts store and purchase one sheet each of the following wet/dry sandpaper grits: 600, 1000, & 2000 (or whatever the highest is they have). If you have a Woodcraft store in your city, they will also have this same kind of sandpaper in grits well above 2,000.
    3.) When you get home, cut your sheets of sandpaper in half or thirds the long way. That way you get more mileage out of each sheet.
    4.) Starting with the 600 grit, wet it completely with water then spread it flat on the plate glass (grit side up). The water should help "stick" it to the glass. If it starts to move on you, just dump some more water on the sandpaper. The water becomes both your paper adhesive and your sharpening lubricant.
    5.) Take a sharpie marker and black out all edges that need to be sharpened. Just the edge itself, not the whole blade.
    6.) Begin sharpening the broadhead just like you would on a diamond plate or flat stone. Flip it to the next side when all of the black magic marker is gone from the side you've been working with.
    7.) Once you've made it all the way around, move up to the next higher grit of sandpaper and repeat steps 4 - 6.
    8.) Continue moving up in grits until you've made it through all grits, repeating steps 4 - 6 with each grit change.
    9.) Now, if you have a leather strop, go ahead and lightly strop each side just to remove any micro burr that may exist.

  2. #12
    Moderator Stag Maybee-R's Avatar
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    Very nice. Thanks Jerry.
    No ifs and or buts Just maybee.

  3. #13
    Respected Member Ten Point Stag Takeum's Avatar
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    too hard to sharpen,, I went with Strikers as well,,, I got sick of constantly sharpening the G5's Montecs

  4. #14
    Respected Member Ten Point Stag TEXAS 10PT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry/NJ View Post
    1.) Go to hardware store and but a 9" x 12" scrap of 1/2" plate glass. It doesn't have to be tempered glass.
    2.) Go to auto parts store and purchase one sheet each of the following wet/dry sandpaper grits: 600, 1000, & 2000 (or whatever the highest is they have). If you have a Woodcraft store in your city, they will also have this same kind of sandpaper in grits well above 2,000.
    3.) When you get home, cut your sheets of sandpaper in half or thirds the long way. That way you get more mileage out of each sheet.
    4.) Starting with the 600 grit, wet it completely with water then spread it flat on the plate glass (grit side up). The water should help "stick" it to the glass. If it starts to move on you, just dump some more water on the sandpaper. The water becomes both your paper adhesive and your sharpening lubricant.
    5.) Take a sharpie marker and black out all edges that need to be sharpened. Just the edge itself, not the whole blade.
    6.) Begin sharpening the broadhead just like you would on a diamond plate or flat stone. Flip it to the next side when all of the black magic marker is gone from the side you've been working with.
    7.) Once you've made it all the way around, move up to the next higher grit of sandpaper and repeat steps 4 - 6.
    8.) Continue moving up in grits until you've made it through all grits, repeating steps 4 - 6 with each grit change.
    9.) Now, if you have a leather strop, go ahead and lightly strop each side just to remove any micro burr that may exist.
    You know what Bro. I found these exact instructions crumpled up in the back seat of my truck. I had printed them from a guy that put it out on AT. I went and got all this sand paper at an auto store after work today and will give it a whirl tomorrow. Anyway you know how good I am at sharpening things I hope it works.

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  5. #15
    Respected Member Ten Point Stag TEXAS 10PT's Avatar
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    I tried sharpening my NAP Hellrazors this evening with the 600/1000/2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper doing it in three stages and it works, these babies are dang sharp now. I need to go shoot something now.

    TEXAS
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  6. #16
    Senior Member Eight Point BAArcher's Avatar
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    When I first read your post, I thought you were refering to something Clinton "Didn't Inhale".
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  7. #17
    Respected Member Ten Point superdiablo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dingo View Post
    I couldn't get them as sharp as I wanted them using G-5's sharpener, so I tried my Arkansas stones. I still couldn't get them sharp enough so I went with G-5 strikers. I like the montecs and snuffers though, so if you find something that works please let me know.
    I would really appreciate to know that too! Montecs are very well made, fly straight and tough, but aren't sharp enough out of the box and out of my hands ...

    Do you know if the Tormek sharpening machines could do the job?

    Thanks in advance,

    Javier Martinez.

  8. #18
    Member Spike Extremist's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    I think you were right with the first idea; the stones. I ventured to Africa in 2005 with a 70lb. Mathews UltraMax (I know) shooting Beeman Max-4's tipped with 150 gr. RazorCaps, and a custom 96lb Buckmaster loosing home-made 1000 grain carbon arrows with Magnus Snuffer 160's leading the way. I sharpened them both with a three stone set-up that I packed with me; to say sharp would have been an understatement. Ken Moody, the PH and owner, said he had never seen any broadhead as sharp as mine. To close the deal, another gentleman, whom I nicknamed "The Death Bringer", also hunted with a one piece three blade (Wensel Woodsman's) sharpened the same way and was also complimented by Mr. Moody with "that really is scary sharp". While at camp, he, as well as a few others, used my set-up to re-sharpen their heads.
    It consisted of two diamond stones by Smithy (325 & 750) and the Spyder Co Ultra fine white ceramic. With the Snuffers, I did use a 14" file to "Rough in" the shape as they would not lay flat out of the box. Use the marker trick to confirm the dimensional accuracy of the broadhead. The key with the file or the 325 stone is to make sure you use the same number of strokes for each side, whether or not they all need it. This will make sure the point doesn't wonder off center. Also, I filed away until the entire side was flat, not just the cutting edge.
    To explain the technique, use the thumb and first finger to hold one blade with the point going forward and the threads towards the palm. Only push forward, sharpening from tip to tail, as it would cut when penetrating game. You can use heavy pressure to start with the coarse grits, but make the last few strokes of each step very light. Just be sure to put the tail end down first and let the tip down gentle as this could ruin all that hard work you put into that razor edge. I will admit that when using the 325 and on the final ceramic polish, I used a circular grinding motion to speed up the process, then the straight forward pushing for the last dozen strokes on each side.
    I would recommend the Spyderco stone to anyone who sharpens any blade; I find nothing better. As with the Smithy diamonds, go with DMT. Use the ones without any holes or breaks in the surface, like the G5 stone (made by DMT) that has a 600 & 1200 grit surface. You might need a coarser grit to get things started but you should be able to cut hair off you arm with just the diamond...then when you polish with fine ceramic (yes, you can actually see the mirror shine if done right) hair should run away before the blade even gets there. I didn't use a strope, but didn't have to. With a forward style of sharpening, the same I use on any knife, it takes the burr off with it. I also like to switch sides every stroke for the last few strokes. This also helps eliminate making to burr to begin with. Hope all this helps.
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