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Thread: GTO questions

  1. #1
    Junior Member Fawn
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    Default GTO questions

    hi everyone I picked up my first elite bow last week....a GTO. It's my first binary cam bow and I have a few questions on tuning. I read everything on cam tuning and most of the info i find is on newer cams that actually have lots of individual timing marks. My cams actual have some wholes on them and they are lining up in the same place at full draw. My question is my brace height and A to A is off by 1/8 to 3/16". Should these specs be exact also? I read a few threads that said if the cams are timed the other specs aren't that important.

    The draw stops are hitting the same and the are on the same draw stop timing marks and appear to be set according to the elite tuning guide. Can I advance these a little more to get more valley? I know this will affect draw length but if it grows slightly I should be ok.

    The string a cables need to be replaced but I'm doing a little testing before I order new ones. If I can get everything sorted out and understand the process I will put the strings on my self. If not I'll have to drive 1.5 hours to the nearest dealer and let them do it.

    Thanks in advance
    Bill

  2. #2
    Respected Member Ten Point Stag TEXAS 10PT's Avatar
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    The three track cams have mod stops on the mods. They should both stop about 1/16 before hitting the cables at full draw. To get more valley you must move the draw stop on the top cam upwards. A very small movement will give you more valley but after you move it you need to make sure your mods stops are not pushing into your cables at full draw. Don't worry about ATA or BH. Make sure your draw length and draw weight are right on this is the most important set up. I hope this answers your questions.

    TEXAS
    2011 PURE MAX 1
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    BH and HTC Nashville

  3. #3
    Junior Member Fawn
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    ok I found the stops on the mods, just want to double check I understand, is that what I'm timing both cams to the same at 1/16" from the cables?
    thanks

  4. #4
    Respected Member Ten Point Stag TEXAS 10PT's Avatar
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    Yes and you want them to rotate around and stop just 1/16 before toughing your cables equally. Once you have this timed, you used the draw stop on the top cam to totate around and it evenutally hits youir limb. Moveing this slightly upwards is what will give you your valley/let off. Once you move it draw the bow again to make sure the draw mods are not pushing into the cables. If all is good you are finished.

    TEXAS

    TEXAS
    2011 PURE MAX 1
    2014 ENERGY 35 XTRA
    Elite Archery Pro Staff


    Proud Member of the Texas Boys
    BH and HTC Nashville

  5. #5
    Respected Member Ten Point bfoot's Avatar
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    Default

    What he said. Also, to get most speed, the cables should just barely be off the peg closest to the cam axle while at rest. This has more to do with timing than with syching the cams. Both are important and necessary to get best performance. If touching the cables though, you will get excess noise and vibration so run a piece of paper between the cable and post and make sure there is at least enough for a piece of typing paper to pass.

    bob

    PS - before timing and syching, I suggest that you spec the string and cable. You do this by placing them under 100lbs tension and measuring to make sure they are the correct length. As these are old strings, 70lbs or so should be enough but on a new set use 100lbs. I have found if I do this, the ata and brace are exact as a rule. This also elitmates a good bit of frustraton in timing the bow.
    15 Elites - 1 GTO, 3 E-500s, 1 Synergy, 2 SynXTs, 4 Envys, a 2008.5 Z28, 2 2008.5 GT500, a Aigil, Impulse
    2 K&K Vengeance , 2011 PSE Axe 6, 2011 Hoyt Carbon Element, Four Tributes and one Allegiance

    Frankenbow Freak

  6. #6
    Junior Member Fawn
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    Ok it seems pretty clear now
    i really appreciate your help

  7. #7
    Senior Member Eight Point cmillett79's Avatar
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    Great info 10pt and bfoot
    Elite Dealer Sports Center ​Vicksburg , MS 601-638-4262

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